Secrets of Salsa - S.F. Chronicle Article

Marisol Jimenez pauses several times to study the chalkboard as she lists the ingredients to make Seven-Chile Salsa for Salmon.

It's not that she doesn't know how to make the dish. She's prepared it countless times. It's just that the recipe has never been written down. The steps are in her head, taught to her by her mother, who learned them from her mother.

Watching her are 12 women, intently following every move. But this isn't a cooking class. The dozen women watching Jimenez write out a salsa recipe are trying to learn English.

The language class is taught at the Anderson Valley Adult School in Boonville in Mendocino County. The women attending are salsa experts who have moved to the region but don't know much English. Between 10 and 20 women attend English class on any given day, depending on work and family obligations.

As Jimenez describes each ingredient to her audience, there are questions. Does it matter what type of tomatoes you use? "I used 50 percent Roma tomatoes and 50 percent slicing tomatoes, but it doesn't matter, as long as they are red and ripe," Jimenez replies.

Do you remove the seeds and membranes from the chiles? "Take them out of the pasilla, Anaheim and chilaca. Leave them in the serrano, guero and jalapeno chiles," she explains.

Why not add salt before the sauce is simmered? "Because the consomme has salt; add salt to taste at the end."

Jimenez gets some good-natured teasing when someone points out that she has not listed a key ingredient - garlic. She adds it to the chalkboard and it is time to taste the results. The warm salsa, rich and with a spicy kick, is spooned over baked salmon and served with salad and corn tortillas.

"Delicious," everyone murmurs. "Muy deliciosa, Marisol."

Her Seven-Chile Salsa, a staple in her native Mexican state of Sinaloa, stimulates lots of conversation - much of it in English, which is exactly the goal of the class. It began three years ago, when Anderson Valley Adult School teacher Kira Brennan was looking for ways to make the school's teaching methods more useful to the area's large Spanish-speaking population.

Brennan and adult school director Barbara Goodell knew that project-based learning makes information stick. It was simply a matter of finding the right project, which the pair stumbled on by accident.

Twice a week, an English class met for three hours. Students got hungry, so they brought snacks. Those snacks usually came with salsa, made with varying ingredients and regional touches, and always with a story.

With so many wonderful salsas coming to class, Brennan hit on the idea of putting the recipes into writing as a way to teach English as well as preserve some regional Mexican recipes. She envisioned a stapled booklet. What she ended up with was a 25-recipe book titled, "Secrets of Salsa: A Bilingual Cookbook by the Mexican Women of Anderson Valley," (66 pages; Chelsea Green Publishing Co.; $14.95.)

"We told Kira she was crazy when she told us she wanted to do a cookbook, because salsa is just tomatoes, chiles and onions," says Angeles Segura, who moved from Guadalajara to Boonville four years ago and contributed the Original Red Salsa recipe to the cookbook. "But when the book came out, we all said, "Wow!' We were surprised that something as simple as salsa was interesting to other people."

The salsa recipes are given in English and Spanish, along with each sauce's flavor profile, heat rating and serving suggestions. There are instructions for the roasting of chiles, tomatoes and tomatillos, and for blending and grinding ingredients.

"It's part of our culture: you make the salsa, you make the tortillas," recipe contributor Gabriela Quezada says. "We don't eat anything without salsa. It's like . . . breathing. We do it without even thinking about it. It's intuition. We helped our mothers make salsa, so we had 20 years of experience when we had our own families."

"Secrets of Salsa" was first published in 2000, with a book-signing party held at the Boonville Hotel. Hundreds of neighbors, Mexican and Anglo, celebrated the diversity of their community and the accomplishments of the Latina women.

"Many Mexican women here have a feeling of shyness and invisibility; they're an insular pocket in this society," says Maria Goodwin, who compiled the text for the book. "The cookbook put these women out in the community, won them attention and accolades. They began to see that they had something to contribute."

Goodell estimates that 12,000 copies of "Secrets of Salsa" have been sold. The project became larger than the adult school could handle, so earlier this year it sold the publishing rights to Chelsea Green Publishing Co. in Vermont. The school makes a percentage off the sale of each book and retains local sales rights. Sales go toward the $96,000 annual cost to run the English program, which is supplemented by $30,000 in state money as well as grants and countless hours of volunteer work.

The success of the book spawned the formation of the Salsitas, a catering group of which Jimenez is a member. There are about 20 Salsitas and 10 community members involved with the catering group. They prepare and serve salsas, tortillas and other Mexican dishes at local events, many of them at wineries. Navarro Vineyards owners Deborah Cahn and Ted Bennett gave the book a big boost when they ordered several thousand copies, which they send to customers and sell in their tasting room.

Earlier this month, the Salsitas sold salsa, tortillas, quesadillas and pork carnitas at the Mendocino County Fair. Johnny Schmitt, chef at the Boonville Hotel, opened his kitchen to the women so that they would have the equipment and workspace they needed. Lauren's restaurant, also in Boonville, does the same thing.

While some salsas are searingly hot, many are quite mellow. Others have heat that is balanced by the fruity character of the chile and the addition of other ingredients. In the mild category is Maria Elena Mendoza's Traditional Fresh Salsa. It's Mexico's universal salsa, made from chopped tomatoes, white onions, jalapeno or serrano chiles, lime juice and cilantro. Mendoza says this basic salsa can be enhanced by the addition of chopped avocados or nopales, cactus paddles.

Another tame sauce is Mango Cucumber Salsa, created by Teresa Alvarez. It's a cool, refreshing blend of cucumbers, mangoes, jalapeno chiles, lime juice, garlic and chili powder - perfect atop grilled halibut and sea bass.

Salsas in the medium category include Antonia Perez's Simmered Tomatillo Serrano Salsa. The tartness of the tomatillos and spice from serrano chiles are countered by the creamy texture of avocado, making this a satisfying sauce for chip-dipping and as a partner for grilled and baked chicken and seafood.

Priscila Anguiano's medium-spicy Roasted Red Chile Tomatillo Salsa works with tostadas, tamales, chicken and roasted meats. It features dried red chiles, chiles de arbol, and has a pungent, smoky quality that blends nicely with tomatillos and garlic.

The salsas rated as hot on the "Secrets of Salsa" scale have complex flavors and also leave a sting in the mouth. Laura Espinosa's Chipotle Salsa gets its kick from canned chipotle chiles - smoke-dried jalapenos packed in a spicy adobo sauce - and fresh green chiles. The chipotles lend a rich, wood- fire flavor that makes this salsa compatible with roasted and grilled meats.

For the adventurous palate, there is the hot-hot Marinated Lemon Habanero Salsa, which gets its fiery, long-lasting finish from the habanero, one of the world's hottest chiles. Marinating the habaneros overnight in lemon juice somewhat moderates the heat of the chile. Author Espinosa's family has served this salsa in its native Mexico City for generations, mostly with fish, shrimp and chicken.

Now that the women have had a taste of success, there is talk about publishing another cookbook, selling salsas or broadening the catering company's scope once the Salsitas learn business skills and can work independently of the school.

"This was not just a lesson in how to make salsa, but of women sharing their stories through the common experience of food," Brennan says. "We began to learn how to celebrate and value ourselves and each other as women, mothers, partners, cooks, housekeepers, workers, and students of English. This has been about cultures coming together, literacy and women's empowerment."

"Secrets of Salsa" is available from the Anderson Valley Adult School; call (707) 895-3774, or at www.secretsofsalsa.com. It's also available in some Bay Area bookstores, many Mendocino County winery tasting rooms and at www.amazon.com.

7-CHILE SALSA FOR SALMON
(Hot)

This recipe comes from the state of Sinaloa on the northwest coast of
Mexico, where Marisol Jimenez learned to make it from her mother. Served
warm or at room temperature, this chunky salsa is traditionally eaten with
roasted or grilled salmon and other red-fish varieties caught off the
Sinaloan coast.

INGREDIENTS:
-- 1 green pasilla chile
-- 1 chilaca chile, or 1 dried pasilla
-- 1 Anaheim chile
-- 2 green serrano chiles
-- 2 red serrano chiles
-- 2 guero chiles, or 2 Hungarian yellow wax chiles
-- 2 green jalapeno chiles
-- 1 pound ripe red tomatoes
-- 1 yellow onion
-- 4 ounces (Ç cup) butter
-- 3 garlic cloves, minced
-- 2 cups chicken consomme
-- 1 bunch cilantro (leaves and tender stems), chopped
-- Salt to taste
-- Fresh lime juice to taste

INSTRUCTIONS: Remove the stems, seeds and veins from the pasilla, chilaca
and Anaheim chiles and discard. Remove the stems only from the serrano,
guero and jalapeno chiles. Coarsely chop all of the chiles, the tomatoes
and the onion.

Heat a large saucepan over medium heat; add the butter and let it melt.
Add the tomatoes, onion, chiles, garlic and consomme and simmer for
approximately 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chiles are
tender. Add the cilantro and simmer for 3 minutes longer. Season with
salt.

Add a squeeze of fresh lime before serving.

PER RECIPE: 1,135 calories, 19 g protein, 60 g carbohydrate, 98 g fat (58
g saturated), 250 mg cholesterol, 1,015 mg sodium, g fiber.

CITRUS SALSA
(Mild-Medium)

This lovely green and orange salsa has a unique citrus zest
that complements all chicken and fish dishes. Excellent served as a dip
with a side of sour cream. From Marina Franco.

INGREDIENTS:
1 pound tomatillos, husked
2 to 3 jalapeno chiles
1 small onion
1 bunch cilantro (leaves and tender stems), chopped
4 oranges
Salt to taste

INSTRUCTIONS: Dice the tomatillos, jalapenos and onion into very small
pieces and put into a bowl.
Add the cilantro and juice of 3 oranges.
Peel the remaining orange and cut into small pieces. Add to the salsa.
Season with salt.

PER RECIPE: 395 calories, 10 g protein, 84 g carbohydrate, 6 g fat (1 g
saturated), 0 cholesterol, 25 mg sodium, 14 g fiber.

5 GREEN SALSA WITH GARLIC & LIME
(Medium-Hot)

This variation on traditional green salsa uses garlic and lime. Both
ingredients greatly enhance the flavors, creating a delightful and light
salsa.
Excellent served with all chicken dishes, meat tacos (especially barbecued
goat) and polenta. From Martha Ferreyra.

INGREDIENTS
4 to 7 jalapeno chiles
1 pound tomatillos, husked
1 garlic clove
1 ripe avocado
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1 lime
Salt to taste

INSTRUCTIONS: Place a heavy skillet over medium heat. Put the chiles in
the skillet and toast, turning often, for about 10 minutes, until they are
blackened, blistered and softened. Remove from skillet.
Add the tomatillos to the skillet and cook, turning, for about 10 minutes,
until they are softened and blistered. The skin should change color and
become light green or yellow. It's OK if they break open during the
cooking process. Remove from skillet.
Blend the garlic first with a little water in a blender. Add the roasted
chiles and tomatillos and blend on low.
Peel and pit the avocado. Mash the flesh in a bowl. Add the cilantro and
contents of the blender. Squeeze the lime into the salsa, season with salt
and mix all ingredients.

PER RECIPE: 495 calories, 10 g protein, 48 g carbohydrate, 35 g fat (5 g
saturated), 0 cholesterol, 36 mg sodium, 16 g fiber.

TRADITIONAL FRESH SALSA
(Mild-Medium)

This traditional salsa is one of the most important salsas in Mexican
culture. Its fresh and mild taste lends itself to any dish, or it can
stand alone as the perfect appetizer with chips. From Maria Elena Mendoza.

INGREDIENTS:
1/2 onion
2 to 3 serrano chiles
Juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 bunch cilantro (leaves and tender stems), finely chopped
5 Roma tomatoes

INSTRUCTIONS: Finely chop the onion and chiles and put into a bowl. Add
the lime juice, sugar, salt and cilantro.
Dice the tomatoes very finely (discard any juice) and add to the mixture
just before serving. Tomatoes should always be added last as the salt
draws out the juice.
This salsa should be eaten soon after prepared.

PER RECIPE: 195 calories, 4 g protein, 37 g carbohydrate, 1 g fat (0
saturated), 0 cholesterol, 2,365 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.

ROASTED RED CHILE
TOMATILLO SALSA
(Medium-Hot)

This is a simple, traditional salsa that is attractive to the eye, and has
a surprisingly delectable combination of flavors, which are at once sour,
sweet, spicy, pungent and smoky. An excellent salsa for dipping and for
chicken dishes and tamales. From Priscila Anguiano.

INGREDIENTS:
1 pound tomatillos, husked
1 ounce chile de arbol (15 dried red chiles)
1 garlic clove
1/4 to 1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon salt

INSTRUCTIONS: Wash the tomatillos, pat dry and put in a heavy skillet.
Place over medium heat and cook, turning, for about 10 minutes, until
softened and blistered. The skin should change color and become light
green or yellow.
It's OK if they break open during the cooking process. Remove from skillet
and set aside.
Reduce heat to low. Put the chiles in the skillet and toast for about 5
minutes, turning constantly, until they turn a deep red color. Do not let
the chiles blacken or they will have a bitter taste. Remove from skillet
and let cool for a few minutes. Break open the chiles and shake out the
seeds.
Combine the chiles, garlic and water in a blender; blend on high. Add the
tomatillos and salt; blend on low. Do not blend for more than 10 seconds.

PER RECIPE: 255 calories, 9 g protein, 41 g carbohydrate, 9 g fat (1 g
saturated), 0 cholesterol, 2,344 mg sodium, 20 g fiber.

SIMMERED TOMATILLO SERRANO SALSA
(Medium-Hot)

This green salsa has a piquant taste with a velvety texture. Avocados and
cilantro, combined with the sharp tang of serranos, make this a truly
exquisite salsa. Serve with any dish. From Antonia Perez.

INGREDIENTS:
1 pound tomatillos, husked
5 serrano chiles
1 garlic clove
1 avocado
1/2 bunch cilantro (leaves and tender stems), finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt

INSTRUCTIONS: Boil the tomatillos and chiles in a saucepan with 1 cup of
water until soft, 5 to 10 minutes. Drain. Blend with the garlic on low for
1 minute.
Peel the avocado, but save the seed to put in the finished salsa. Add the
avocado flesh to the blender and blend for 5 seconds on low.
Combine the tomatillo mixture and the cilantro in a bowl. Add salt to
taste.
Add the avocado seed (do not eat!) to preserve the color.

PER RECIPE: 545 calories, 8 g protein, 37 g carbohydrate, 34 g fat (5 g
saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 2,366 mg sodium, 16 g fiber.

CHIPOTLE SALSA
(Hot)
Chipotles have a deep, smoky flavor. The combination of tomatillos and
cilantro produces a rich salsa that is an excellent accompaniment to
grilled meats and all Mexican dishes. From Laura Espinosa.

INGREDIENTS:
1 pound tomatillos, husked
3 to 5 jalapeno or serrano chiles
1 (4-ounce) can chipotle chiles
2 large garlic cloves
Salt to taste
1 large onion, finely chopped
1/2 bunch cilantro (leaves and tender stems), finely chopped

INSTRUCTIONS: Simmer whole tomatillos and jalapenos in 1/2 cup water until
soft and yellowed.
Drain juice from chipotles, then seed them.
Put the tomatillo mixture in a blender with the chipotle chiles, garlic
and salt. Blend until smooth.
Empty the contents of the blender into a bowl and add finely chopped onion
and cilantro. Mix and serve.

PER RECIPE: 290 calories, 8 g protein, 54 g carbohydrate, 9 g fat (1 g
saturated), 0 cholesterol, 533 mg sodium, 14 g fiber.

Linda Murphy is a freelance writer in Sonoma County.

Contacts:

Anderson Valley Adult School; call (707) 895-377

Chelsea Green Publishing Company:
Sales: 800-639-4099
Catalogs or information: 802-295-6300
Fax: 802-295-6444
Email:

¡LAS SALSITAS!

Women craft Mexican salsas as way to learn English